Bodegas Elias Mora, Elias Mora Reserva, Toro 2012
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95
Wine Review Online
What a pleasure to find a high-end, current release wine from Spain that is in the market at a point in its development when it can be appreciated fully! This is a wine of great beauty and complexity, and one that collectors would be well advised to seek out, and yet its readiness to relish right now makes it a great option for those who don’t have cellars to buy to celebrate a special occasion. The fruit is 100% Tinta de Toro (a local strain of Tempranillo resulting from genetic mutation over time), sourced from the single, 80-year-old Senda del Lobo vineyard. It shows medium-plus body but no sense of heaviness and no hint of over-ripeness, with lovely accents of spices and faint hints of coffee beans, cured meat and pipe tobacco. There’s plenty of tannin to provide structure, but it is superbly fine in grain, resulting is very soft mouthfeel and a finish that is luxuriously long, without any foreshortening from astringency. Absolutely beautiful.
94
International Wine Review
The 2012 Toro ‘Reserva’ from Elias Mora was aged for 24 months in French oak prior to bottling. A brooding, glass staining wine, this begins with deep aromas of coffee grounds, eucalyptus, black cherry cordial and dark chocolate shavings. The palate is wonderfully balanced and smooth, showing moderate tannins. Black and blue fruits take shape in the glass supported by strong tension and notable weight. This marvelous wine is drinking incredibly well now but also has the potential for long-term cellaring.
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Vinous
(fermented and aged in new French oak barrels for 17 months) Inky ruby. Deep-pitched, spice-accented dark berry and licorice aromas are lifted by a lively floral nuance. Supple and expansive in the mouth, offering densely packed blackberry, bitter chocolate and floral pastille flavors plus hints of spicecake and vanilla. The impressively long, seamless, dark-fruit-driven finish features fine-grained tannins and an echo of candied flowers.
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