Vignoble des Cabottes, Montrachet Grand Cru

Montrachet heaven, balancing on the knife edge between exotic ripeness and forest-air freshness. Lots of enticing lime and vanilla-bean aromas but also a radical mineral energy that lifts the rich and expansive palate, pulling it tight. The finish is incredibly focused and breathtakingly complete. From organically grown grapes. From a 0.89-hectare plot in this world-famous site. Drinkable now but best from 2026.

This staggeringly good wine is perhaps just ahead of last year’s monumental effort, with profuse aromas that range from ripe pear, melon and crisp nectarine to white flowers, spice and butter. There is a balance of lovely intensity, weight and a creamy texture that seemingly lasts forever. The wine is a product of technical director Frédéric Weber’s precision winemaking, with each section of their massive 0.89ha holding grown and vinified separately. Still maturing, this will be a wine for the ages. Ideally, one would wait at least a decade before opening this, but it will last 70 years or more.

The 2023 Montrachet Grand Cru takes time to open, so I afford this five minutes in the glass to tuck its shirt in. It reveals attractive praline and light peach skin scents on the nose, perhaps missing the mineral drive of the La Cabotte. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, bright acids and nice tension, and it builds towards a persistent and lightly spiced Satsuma-tinged finish. Purrs with class.

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