Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos, Prima 2019
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92
OwenBargreen.com
The 2019 ‘Prima’ is a gorgeous new wine by San Roman. On the nose this takes on layers of toasty oak alongside ripe blue fruits and serious finesse. Finishing long, this is sturdy and dense Toro wine to consume over the next seven years. Drink 2022-2029.
Like everything else in an environment where inflation is running at 9%, this wine is a bit more expensive than it may have been when you last purchased it, but it seems more pure and polished in almost every successive vintage, and the value of “Prima” is increasing — not decreasing. The blend now includes 15% Garnacha, which seems unlikely in Toro, but this house’s varietal Garnacha is wonderful, as it its effect on this wine. More supple and succulent than most previous vintages, this still shows admirable concentration and flavor impact, with dark cherry and berry fruit notes tinged with some red and blue tones as well — not to mention some alluring savory accents that are already emerging and lending real complexity at this early stage. Sheesh — for 25 bucks, this should shame almost all of its competitors into hiding.
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Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos, Prima 2021
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93
Vinous
The 2021 Prima from Toro is garnet in hue. The wild herbal nose features strawberry and sour cherry notes. Dry and juicy on the palate, it has fine-grain, reactive tannins that lead to a taut, long-lasting finish. This is a new red wine that will develop beautifully with age.
The juicy, primary and young red 2021 Prima was produced with 85% Tinta de Toro softened with 15% Garnacha and other varieties, resulting in a fresh, floral and aromatic wine that is not shy and hits the scale at 14.5% alcohol, keeping a pH of 3.6. It comes from younger vines whose grapes fermented destemmed with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel with pumping over. It matured in French oak barrels and foudres for 14 months. 160,000 bottles produced. 2024 – 2028.
Bodegas San Román’s 2021 Prima Tinto from Bodegas San Román is nicely balanced this year, coming in listed at 14.5 percent octane. The wine is crafted from its customary cépages of eighty-five percent tempranillo and fifteen percent garnacha, with the oldest vines here being half a century old. The vineyards are farmed organically and just starting to conversion to biodynamics. The wine is aged in a mix of French and American oak for two years, with twenty-five percent of the casks new. The 2021 Prima delivers a deep and complex bouquet of black plums, black cherries, a touch of spiced meats, dark soil tones, woodsmoke and a discreet framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, young and full-bodied, with a superb core of fruit, good soil signature, ripe, chewy tannins, fine grip and a long, complex and very well balanced finish. This will be an excellent wine in due course, but it is a young Toro, so plan on at least a dozen years of hibernation for the wine before it starts to soften up enough to drink with generosity. Fine juice. 2036-2075+.
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