Massolino, Barolo "Parussi" 2020
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97+
Wine Advocate
Massolino works mostly with Serralunga d’Alba fruit, but this is the one exception. From a vineyard site in Castiglione Falletto with sandy limestone soils, the 2020 Barolo Parussi is a stunner. The wine is radiant and bright with an especially direct and focused quality. I would describe it as razor-sharp. This adds to a general sense of fine polish and tightness. I can’t get enough and I can’t wait to see where it goes 10 or 20 years from now. Parussi is an 8,300-bottle release.
Vivid red fruit with subtle floral and citrusy notes and hints of crushed stones. Medium-bodied with firm tannins. Structured and focused with a lingering, expanding aftertaste. Impressive density. Try after two to three years.
Forthcoming aromas of pine and juniper give way to flavors of cherry, raspberry, peony and earth in this harmonious red. Light, powdery tannins line the persistent, raspberry-infused aftertaste. Best from 2027 through 2043. —B.S.
The 2020 Barolo Parussi is a classy, nuanced wine. It shows lovely textural depth and resonance, but in the mid-weight style of the year. Dark red cherry, lavender, rose petal, mint and spice all build nicely, filling out the layers effortlessly. The 2020 is weightless and elegant, with the understated textural depth that is such a signature of this vintage.
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Massolino, Barolo "Parussi" 2021
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98
Wine Advocate
The Massolino 2021 Barolo Parussi draws its fruit from Castiglione Falletto at the center of the appellation with an interesting overlay of old and newer soils. This wine is less immediately aromatic and needs extra time in the glass to develop and flesh out. At this young stage, it delivers tight wild berry and you also get a pretty signature of crushed limestone. That elegant mineral note ties in nicely with the silky tannins. The Parussi excels in a balanced vintage such as this.
Despite inextricable ties to Serralunga d’Alba since 1896, the Massolino family ventured outside the village in 2006 with the purchase of almost 2ha in Castiglione Falletto’s Parussi MGA. Younger soils with a higher percentage of clay yield more vigorous vines, and that surge of vigour is echoed in the 2021. Scents of wild strawberry and cherry are punctuated by tobacco and star anise. On the palate, a glossy core of pomegranate is swathed in chewy tannins – all with the estate’s signature elegance. Pulverised stone and bitter herbs lend further nuance.
Luminous and expressive, with tar, dried rose petals and crushed cranberries. The palate is medium-bodied with delicate, delineated fruit. It’s juicy and incisive, with precise, polished tannins and a delicate finish. Very detailed and nuanced, it’s on the ethereal end of the spectrum. Drink or hold.
Once again, the 2021 Barolo Parussi is super-impressive. It’s such a complete wine, one that marries elegance with understated texture and persistence. Candied red fruit, spice and oral accents show a touch of raciness that builds over time. Parussi is the last vineyard Massolino harvests, a choice that seems especially well suited to this wine. Expansive and layered, with captivating beauty, the Parussi is positively stellar.
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