Mas Martinet, Camí Pesseroles, Priorat 2023
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96
Decanter
A blend of Carinyena from vines more than 80 years-old and younger-vine Garnacha, from high-elevation vineyards in Priorat. A savoury, detailed wine, fermented in open barrels of chestnut wood and matured in large acacia and chestnut barrels, this is full of red fruits, white pepper, warm earth and touches of liquorice. A marvellous wine with a tiny production. Organic.
The 2021 Camí Pesseroles captures the resilient spirit of Garnatxa and Cariñena from the sunny slate hills of Priorat. Fermented in chestnut wood and oak foudres, the 2021 delivers aromas of pomegranate, sour cherry and herbs, along with notes of undergrowth and distinct woody elements. Dry, austere and grippy on the palate, it has a unique, talc-like mouthfeel that leads to a lean, mineral-driven finish.
The 2021 Camí Pesseroles is mostly Cariñena (90%) with some Garnacha from head-pruned old vines planted in 1939 that always deliver concentration and grip. In 2021, they picked the grapes earlier, fermented with full clusters, and the wine finished with 13.3% alcohol. It has the earthy and soil feeling of the Cariñena and the black slate, with hints of tree bark and ink, but there is also an herbal touch, with lots of tension and a lot of energy. Since 2017, this matures in a 1,200-liter chestnut wood foudre that has bigger pores, and part is also in glass demijohns. The spice notes are different here, and there is a touch of rusticity, perhaps from the chestnut. It’s medium-bodied and has fine tannins, lifted by freshness. Earthy and rustic Priorat. This needs time in bottle. 2,704 bottles were filled in September 2022.
Well-spiced and minerally, this sculpted red layers base notes of stone and iron with a pure beam of black currant and mulberry fruit flavors, offering an aromatic overtone of medicinal herbs and cigar box spices. Shows good focus, with the concentrated fruit and fragrant accents cascading through the long, firm finish. Grenache and Carignan. Best from 2026 through 2036. 250 cases made, 60 cases imported.
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Mas Martinet, Camí Pesseroles, Priorat 2023
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95
Wine Advocate
The 2023 Camí Pesseroles is mostly Cariñena with some Garnacha (depending on the yields from Garnacha) from head-pruned old vines planted in 1939, harvested together and co-fermented (which changes in 2024). The grapes were foot trodden and fermented in an open-top oak vat, and since 2017, the wine has matured in a chestnut foudre. It has a serious and harmonious nose and 14% alcohol, reflecting the climate. It is concentrated and has some earthiness. It feels more classical. This is a sulfured cuvée, with sulfur added at bottling time, as Cariñena and slate are more difficult to do without added sulfites.
There’s a sanguine underpinning to this fresh, concentrated red, with hints of iron, loamy earth and saline lacing a core of blackberry and blueberry coulis, herbed black olive, and dried lavender and violet. The savory-sweet interplay is appealing, as is the deft integration of the fine, chalky tannins that firm the finish. Carignan and Grenache. Best from 2028 through 2038. 300 cases made.
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