Macan Rioja Tinto 2017
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94
Decanter
A famously difficult year in Rioja with frost and hail, as well as some botrytis. However Macán shows plenty of promise with dark damson fruit, very fine tannin and well managed oak. Definitely an encouraging progression from the first vintage (launched in 2009) with a much clearer expression of the terroir and more elegant oak. At 16 months, it spends four months longer in oak than Macán Clásico. The ageing in French oak is now divided between foudres and barriques.
2017 was a very challenging year, as most of their vineyards in San Vicente de la Sonsierra in Rioja were affected by frost, unlike others in nearby Laguardia. Not only was it frost, but they also had hail later on in the season. Quantities suffered—they told me they lost 70% of the crop in Rioja that year—but they were happy about the quality of the 2017 Macán, being very careful with the fermentation and separating the press wine by quality. The 4,000-liter oak foudres helped to polish the tannins, and they used 50% new barrels. The élevage lasted 16 moths. It’s a little riper than the Clásico from 2018 that I tasted next to it, with a little more alcohol (14.5%) and mellow acidity. It’s clearly a weaker vintage, and the wine shows it: the fruit is a little ripe and shows some tiredness, like it’s evolving at a faster pace. It has abundant, slightly rustic tannins. 40,400 bottles, 2,566 magnums and some larger formats produced. It was bottled in September 2019. Quantities reflect the low yields.
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Macan Rioja Tinto 2020
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95
Decanter
A lot of potential in this yet coiled classical Rioja with luscious black fruit (cherries, blackcurrants, plum) drenched in dark chocolate and sprinkled with black pepper, liquorice and cocoa nibs. The smoky tannins are cloaked in dry tobacco and cherry leaves. A streak of blood orange adds a zesty lift.
The 2020 Macán includes new plots and Garnacha and Graciano grapes, and they harvested a little earlier. They select their best plots in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, and the grapes were cooled down for 24 hours before fermenting in oak vats with part of autochthonous yeasts. It matured 50% in new French oak barrels and 4,000-liter oak foudres for 16 months. The bottles are kept for three years before they’re released. There were 98,835 bottles, 3,557 magnums and some larger formats produced. It was bottled in August 2022.
Black plums, currants, black beans and touches of sandalwood, ash and cigar box on the nose. Juicy and full-bodied, with really fine-grained tannins and a long, linear finish that lingers. Really poised. Needs at least two more years to come around.
The 2020 Macán from Rioja Alavesa aged for one year in barrels and foudres, followed by six months in vats. The nose features expectorant notes—likely from the dash of Graciano—along with cassis, black fruit, plum, forest floor, cedar and mint. Slightly concentrated, it is juicy and textured, with fine tannins and a lingering finish of fruit and oak. The 2020 is complex and expressive.
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