Domaine des Lambrays, Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru "Clos Baulet" 2023
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94
Decanter
The ripe, curranty fruit aromas of the Morey Clos Baulet has an agreeable note of eucalyptus or rosemary; Jacques Devauges says ‘végétale noble’, but the translation doesn’t convey the charm of this earthy, slightly rustic note. The tannins are firm but not astringent and there is enough freshness to draw the wine to a lovely finish. The grapes are from the 0.30 hectare plot just down from the winery. The wine will be ready to open in five to seven years, and will continue to improve for another 20 beyond that.
90-92
Vinous
The 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Baulets 1er Cru is the smallest Premier Cru on brown soils, with Lambrays holding 0.3 hectares. The 50% stems seem quite exposed on the nose and occludes the fruit at present. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and slightly darker fruit. It is overtly peppery thanks to those stems, which will require time to integrate. I will be prudent for now.
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