Clos des Lambrays, Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru "Clos du Cailleret" 2022
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96
James Suckling
A bit weightier and lengthier than les Folatieres. Uncoiled power and tension, with aromas of minerals and touches of white sesame, lemon curd and shells. Soft-spoken but powerful at the same time, with chalky austerity, a medium to full body and a long, saline finish that lingers well. 1,500 bottles made using wild yeast. Drink or hold.
This ripe, rich style is backed by vibrant acidity, boasting peach, melon, mineral and toasty oak flavors before turning more linear and delineated on the lingering finish. Shows terrific intensity, with a stony undertow. Drink now through 2029. 175 cases made, 20 cases imported.
The Domaine des Lambrays acquired 0.36 hectares of the Clos du Cailleret from Chartron in the 1990s. Along with their even smaller slice of Folatières, this is the white wine of the domaine. Jack Devauges and his team have succeeded marvellously with this bottling, boasting grapefruit and ripe nectarine aromas with hints of flint, smoke and spice. The texture deftly balances extract and fresh acidity to good effect, driving the wine to a lingering finish. Although marked by the maturation in 50% new casks, with three to five years, this will integrate seamlessly and should age well.
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Clos des Lambrays, Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru "Clos du Cailleret" 2023
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92-94
Vinous
The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret 1er Cru, as usual, has more mineralité and complexity on the nose compared to Les Folatières, with just a touch of melted wax and smoke in the background. The palate is well balanced with a tang of orange zest on the entry, a taut line of acidity and quite a concentrated and persistent finish. This is very promising.
Made by Boris Champy before he left the domaine, this impressive white hails from a 60-year-old parcel next to Montrachet and has produced one of the best expressions of the terroir from this Morey-St-Denis-based producer yet. Zesty, fresh and crystalline, with nuances of coconut and toffee fudge, good texture and a sappy, flinty finish.
Jacques Devauges loves to combine science with craft, and he was thrilled to point out this wine’s 3.2 pH—impressively low in such a hot vintage and almost exactly the same as in 2022. Unsurprisingly, the sleek, dry palate feels appropriately chiselled by soaring acidity. A plethora of flavors swirls in the glass: peach pit, grated coconut, warm pie crust and crushed stones. These 70-year-old vines make wines that last just as long, as Jacques attests from the many old bottles he has tasted from the cellar.
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