Billecart-Salmon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Louis 2009
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97
Jeb Dunnuck
The 2009 Champagne Blanc De Blancs Louis Salmon Brut comes from Mesnil, Cramant and Chouilly and was all fermented in stainless steel tank. Since 2009 was a warmer vintage, they did not use wood, as they were looking to preserve the freshness of the wine. A seductive wine that’s almost identical in appearance to the 2017 Blanc de Blancs, this 2009 jumps from the glass with a buoyant personality in its perfume of lemon custard, honeysuckle, fresh brioche, a hint of almond, and juicy pear. Full-bodied, its wonderfully rich texture coats the palate with citrus oils, and it has a finish that won’t quit. It balances its warmth and solar feel with a lovely embrace and retains a powerful yet balanced finish. Drink 2024-2040. 3.8 grams per liter dosage.” 11/23
The 2009 Brut Blancs de Blancs Louis Salmon is a rich, heady wine. In 2009, Billecart-Salmon opted not to use lots aged in oak, which, along with partially blocked malolactic fermentation, helps explain the wine’s freshness and verve. Lemon peel, white flowers, white pepper and chalk are all beautifully delineated. There’s gorgeous density and power here, along with a good bit of vintage 2009 radiance. What a gorgeous Champagne this is. The Louis Salmon is a blend from Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly and Cramant. Dosage is 3.75 grams per liter. Disgorged: second trimester 2022.
This is showing an array of almonds, frangipani, dried lemons, apricots, pastries and white chocolate, evolving to salted caramel. Fantastic complexity and all in balance, with firm focus yet open and delicious. Creamy, very fine bubbles. Salty, turning chalky and mineral at the end. Drink or hold.
Disgorged during the second quarter of 2022 with a dosage of 3.75 grams per liter, the 2009 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Louis Salmon reveals aromas of pear, lemon oil, mandarin oil, white pepper, pastry and almonds. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and long, it has a crystalline yet vinous texture with a fresh, salty finish. It is a quintessential representation of Billecart’s style, characterized by racy acids and a lively palate. It derives from Chardonnay grapes sourced from the villages of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly and Cramant and was aged exclusively in steel tanks.
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Billecart-Salmon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Louis 2012
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97
Vinous
The 2012 Brut Blancs de Blancs Louis Salmon is a gorgeous wine for drinking now, as it is quite a bit softer than the 2013 that precedes it in this tasting. Baked apple tart, spice, dried herbs and a kiss of
French oak caress the palate. Rich and hedonistic, the 2012 has so much to o!er. A slight hint of reduction lingers. The blend is Le Mesnil, Chouilly, Cramant and Oiry.
Produced from top parcels of Chardonnay in the Côte des Blancs, this fine Champagne is impressive. It is rich and mature, the almond aroma and croissant flavor balanced by still bright citrus and minerality. It is a great wine, just right, ready to drink. Billecart Salmon USA.
Incredible aromas of brioche, bread dough and pie crust with superb, electrifying fruit […]. It’s driven, mouthwatering and with fantastic structure, yet it’s so balanced and creamy.
Fresh and appealing, with a refined, lively mousse and good cut to the focused flavors of poached apricot and lemon pound cake that show accents of pickled ginger, vanilla and pastry cream. Long and harmonious, with a well-spiced finish. Disgorged winter-spring 2023 (My Origin 121234). Drink now through 2035.—A.N.
A 100% Chardonnay, sourced from vines planted in the communes of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Cramant, and Oiry, the 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Louis Salmon evokes aromas of lemon oil, pastry, baked bread, walnuts and chalk. Medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, it’s vinous, almost creamy, with a layered, delicate structure that leads to a delicately citrusy, long and delicate finish. This Champagne is built to age, thanks to the power of the 2012 vintage and the house’s signature tension. Disgorged in the second quarter of 2023 with 3.9 grams per liter dosage, it was matured 75% in stainless steel and 25% in barrels.
The 2012’s already expressive aromatics in explosive charry, flinty energy and an extra degree of fluid freshness on the palate.
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Billecart-Salmon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Louis 2013
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97
Vinous
The 2013 Brut Blancs de Blancs Louis Salmon is a powerful, dense Champagne that captures all the intensity of this late-ripening year. Apricot, peach, tangerine oil, mint and tropical inflections fill out
the layers. Dense and very young, the 2013 is built for the cellar. It’s a seriously impressive wine from Billecart-Salmon. The blend is 44% Cramant, 26% Chouilly, 25% Le Mesnil and 5% Oiry, done entirely
in tank with full malolactic fermentation.
This blanc de blancs is very pure and fresh, showing white flowers, light hazelnuts, peaches and grapefruit on the nose, with a hint of oyster shells. It’s sleek and chalky on the palate, linear and racy, with very fine bubbles and a bright acidic backbone. 100% stainless steel vinification. Chardonnay from Cramant, Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and some Oiry. 4 g/L dosage. Disgorged January 2024. Drink or hold
The reference point of Billecart-Salmon’s contemporary direction, the 2013 Blanc de Blancs Louis Salmon, disgorged in January 2024 with four grams per liter dosage, stands as the most characterful wine of the new lineup, expressing itself from the glass with aromas of early-blooming white flowers, lemon oil, nashi pear and almond paste mingled with cardamom, oyster shell and freshly baked bread. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied and elegantly muscular, with a tensile core of crystalline purity, racy acids and ample chalky extract. Harvested in October, it derives from the communes of Cramant, Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oiry and was vinified entirely in stainless steel with full malolactic fermentation in pursuit of greater harmony in a cool-profile vintage such as this. It is slightly more elegant and simultaneously less powerful than the 2012 rendition, yet it remains equally compelling. Stylistically, it shares certain affinities with the 2008 and 1996 vintages, albeit with more fully realized ripeness.
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