Adegas Gran Vinum Gran Vinum Albarino Seleccion Especial

This wine is among the very best renditions of Albariño from Rías Baixas in almost every vintage, and 2024 is no exception. It is certainly a standout in terms of physical density, but the real key to its success is not its “size” but rather how driving and persistent its flavors prove to be. Purity of fruit is another key, and the notes of orchard fruits with citrus edging are utterly delicious. But again, the wine’s linear energy is truly remarkable by comparison to the many good—but merely good—wines made every year in Rías Baixas. That’s not intended as a knock on the region’s wines (it is borderline amazing that an area with such high rainfall makes such consistently tasty wines) so much as an indication that this is truly something special. The spectacular finish was easy to sense when tasting it on its own, but when re-tasting it along with spicy fried rice, the aftertaste of the wine outlasted the lingering flavors of the food. Trust me—I’ve got the score right on this, even though many reviewers seem to subconsciously impose a “ceiling” on the scores they’ll accord to Albariño, just as one very rarely sees a score of 95 for Sauvignon Blancs from anywhere. This is state-of-the-art juice.

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